We are leaving for Narvik, but will be diving at a couple of sites on the way, once we have filled the cylinders.

The first dive is a German Destroyer, the Hermann Kunne, Z19. It was run aground, now lying on its starboard side. What is left the bow is in 2m, the stern is at about 40m. We swim to the stern buoy and descend. Kyrre swims off a bit to take pics with John, Frode and myself hover around the stern for a bit then start our progress up the wreck. It is easy to identify the bases of the two stern gun turrets, but no sign of the guns, I assume salvaged. There are some single big fish swimming around, Saithe? Frode finds a telephone with German labels. It is loose from the wreck, this would not be the case in the UK and it would be rotting in someone's shed.

Frode (farthest) and myself on the 'Hermann Kunne' (Photo Kyrre Ingebrethsen)

We continue over the wreckage, there is lots of it, but it is a lot of torn metal - unrecognisable. It appears that the area is also I bit of a local dumping ground, I'm sure they would not have had a lawn mower and dishwasher on board. Nearby is a huge purple Sunstar. We find a couple of 150mm shell cases near the forward turret, along with the threaded point of a shell. Find a small Anglerfish in the last part of the wreck, only 2 or 3m deep now. Loads of missed clays pigeons litter the seabed. More fun from the locals.

I could do this wreck a few more times.

Max. depth 39.3m, 50 minutes, 21%, 5°C

We drop off the cylinders at the fire station in the next town for filling and go for lunch. We have Bjerviking burgers, a famed local burger. It has dried crunchy onions on it, which is SOOO wrong according to Kyrre. Onions are for hotdogs only.

Onto the next wreck, a Junkers 52 lying 7m down in a lake. Kit washing time! This is one of 11 that landed here, but most flew off or have been salvaged. One is in a garage in Narvic. Frode and I give John and Kyrre and few minutes on the wreck for pictures and then descend ourselves. We look around the port engine, the only one of the 3 remaining, then around the rest of the plane. The rear of the plane is now under silt, but there is plenty to see. The levers and switches are in place in the cockpit, barrels fill half of the main fuselage. The barrels may have been used to try to lift the plane.

Frode and I swim of the wreck and further down the slope, we find other bits of tubing and then another wing flap. It is obvious that the remains of other planes exist, if nothing like as complete as the first. We swing around in a loop and come back to the starboard wing of the main plane. It looks like some divers have been taking cuts of rubber from the wheels. Back over to the port engine. Frode spots some faint red writing on the fuel tank. By now we have seen everything here so make our return.

The engine

The remaining engine. (Photo Kyrre Ingebrethsen)

Max. depth 24.6m, 25 minutes, 21%, 6°C

We drive onto Narvik and check in at the hostel. The hostel puts some B&Bs I have stayed in to shame. We get a bit to eat and then join other divers in the bar for all the usual chat.